How do I get started in Modeling?

Getting Started

How does one get started in modeling? There is no one way for a person to get started. Different models have reached success through different routes. If one wants to become a doctor there is a set course of schooling, experience and testing, but for modeling there is no clear path. We do know of some of the ways models have gotten started in the past. This is by no means an exhaustive list but it might help in your efforts to launch a career in modeling.

Front Door – Go to the Source
The bulk of the work in modeling is booked through Modeling Agencies. So literally go to the front door of the modeling agency. This is the number one way for a wannabe to start. You have to do some research to find where the modeling agency door is, locally or other big city, and that they are no SCAM AGENCY. You can approach a modeling agency through their open call, schedule an interview or by submitting a cover letter and photographs. Give them a call or email them and ask how they want new talent to contact them. There is no reason to try another way of getting started until you have been turned down at the front door.

Know Someone
Some models get started because they have an in. You hear stories of someone who has a friend who models and goes to a photo shoot with them and is then discovered by the photographer. Some might have an aunt who modeled or runs an agency and helps to get them started. Others might work in a related field and one day finds them not working beside the camera but in front of it. In smaller markets child models are most often used because they are an art director’s, buyer’s, or photographer’s kid. Knowing someone in the business can help a lot in getting a career in modeling started.

The Fates
Modeling agencies are in fact constantly looking for new talent. This is very true in fashion modeling. This segment of modeling is composed mostly of young models. By the time a model is thirty their career is over. There is always a need to find the next generation of models. Because of this need for new talent, folks involved with modeling agencies are looking for new talent. This can be modeling agencies’ personnel (owner, booker), photographers, art directors, and of course the “model scouts.” Some agencies are in fact large enough to employ an individual who is just out looking for that next generation of new talent or to fill new needs of a client. Unfortunately, the term “model scout” is being used more often by rip off organizations, web space salesmen and scoundrels, so one is correct in being suspicious of anyone calling them selves a model scout. But there are numerous stories of models being discovered at the mall, on the beach, or other public place. So if you hope to start your career in modeling by waiting for the fates to smile on you, plan on spending a lot of time hanging in out in public places.

Hard work
Some models do work their way into modeling (I have also heard from models that modeling is hard work and all models work their way into the business). These models track down tests shoots and put together their comp cards and portfolios. They study and practice being a model by working on their expressions, posing, runway walking, hair styling, make up, working in front of a camera, and how the business works. These models may work freelance or have nonexclusive contracts with a number of modeling agencies. In smaller regional markets, where agencies do not have the resources to develop new talent, an agency might not work with a model until they have developed their skills and marketing materials. If you enjoy the process of modeling and doing good work, then all of the time and expense that go into this process can be its own reward. If you have to make a living at modeling, you should be sure you meet the basic physical and aptitude requirement of the type of modeling you want to become before you invest your time and money into this process. If you want to be a high fashion model and do not have the size or a look, no amount of hard work will make you a career model.

Try to Buy Success
There is a whole industry built around this approach to getting started in modeling. Very few models actually come from this avenue of trying to start a career. This area includes many of the modeling school, modeling camps, model searches, Internet listing services, modeling contest, modeling conventions, and pageants. This is not to say that these activities can’t be interesting, educational and fun. Most of these organizations will take on and take money from almost anyone who wants to be a model. This leads to a very low percentage of career models who actually come from these activities. Most of these organizations survive by playing on people’s dreams, ignorance, and pocket books and not by finding and developing top modeling talent. But in spite of this sometimes someone does make it and this is what these organizations feature in their sales pitches and videos.

What are the height and size requirements for a high fashion model?
This does seem to be the burning question. The general guidelines for women are; 5’6″ to 6′, around a size 3, 34B-24-34, and between 14-21 years of age. For men around 6′ (a couple of inches over or under,) size 40R. Are there exceptions to this? You bet. Is it fair? No. Are there petite sizes and plus sizes? Yes. Do commercial, glamour, acting, or smaller markets care anything about these sizes? Not much. Only if you want to work high fashion in the major markets, like New York, are these numbers important.

Are there jobs for models who specialize in just parts of the body?
Yes. Hand models are often hard to find especially when you need one. It has been my experience that many models will have photogenic faces and good bodies but their hands and feet can be just horrid. Often times you will use one person for the face and have a hand model reaching into the picture to provide the hands. Of course the photographer makes it look like one person but in fact there are two. With jewelry photography we look for good hands, nice neck, and ears. A good ear is very hard to find as they have to be shaped just right, the skin has to be very smooth, and you want them pierced for only one earring not 25. Unfortunately, paying jobs for jewelry modeling seldom come along. It is best to find other industries that need good-looking body parts. Parts models follow similar career paths as regular models. So if you are interested in this type of modeling read through the Modeling Advice section of this site.

How much do models make?
What you hear about is the fabulous big bucks that super models make. Out of all the models in the world, only a handful of them make this top dollar. Their yearly income can be in the millions. But for most models it will be far less, assuming you get any work at all. As a general rule for markets outside of New York, modeling fees will be in the range of photographer’s fees. For a market like Portland, Oregon, the last I check modeling agencies were asking 0 an hour. As you move to larger markets fees for photographers and models will go up (I saw one agency in New York asking 0 per hour) This may not bring you the big bucks of a super model but it will give you a good living if you can find steady work. And that is a big “if”.

Can a modeling agency tell just from a snap shot if I have what it takes to be a model?
Yes and No. One of the normal screening practices for modeling agencies is to have you send a couple of snap shots of yourself, usually a head and shoulder shot and a full-length body shot in a bathing suit or tight clothes. From these snap shots some say they can tell if you have what it takes for modeling. They say, “Don’t spend money on getting photos taken, a Polaroid by your friend is just fine”.

To respond to the “yes” part of this question requires that you send to the modeling agency good, clear, properly exposed, properly composed and with you properly positioned photographs. They can use these photos as a screening tool. This means that if they have an opening for someone with your look, they will be interested in meeting with you in person to see if, in fact, you look like your picture. This does not necessarily mean you have or do not have what it takes to be a model. It just gets you an interview and maybe on to a test shoot.

To respond to the “no” part of the question means most people send bad pictures, or they may look great but you don’t meet the agency’s needs at that moment or the agent guessed wrong. When they talk about sending a simple snap shot, they are actually looking for at least an advance amateur level of photography or a wannabe professional photographer level. Having taught photography for a number of years, I can say that most beginners have problems with exposure, focus, and composition, let alone knowing how to position you to look your best. You may not want to trust your career to your best friend’s ability as a photographer unless they know something about photography.

Normally you will want to try several modeling agencies to see if they are interested in you. One agency may be full of blue eyed blondes while another may have none and need someone. Some of this is just being in the right place at the right time.

Also, we all have our war stories of getting it wrong. One agency or photographer may say someone does not have what it takes and then they go to another agency and become a star. I remember photographing a young 14-year-old, Jody, who I thought just didn’t have the classic beauty look and told her I doubted if she would accomplish much in this field. Fortunately, she did not listen to me. She started working out, kept up her modeling and beauty work, switched over to the pageant side of things and became Miss Oregon. I was way off on that call. I think the initial snap shot, interview, and test shot are just screening processes to find those who would have an easier time in modeling. Some special few may still find some measure of success in modeling by hard work and developing special talents. They won’t become superstars but they can find enjoyment and financial rewards pursuing a modeling career.

Are modeling conventions and searches a good place to start a modeling career or are they a total rip-off?
I do not know. I have never personally been to one of these events (nor are any of them asking me to come and check them out) and I have not seen any 60 Minutes type investigation on them. I have looked over their web sites and I have seen endless chat rooms where they are called the biggest rip-offs out there. I do not know of any top models (all though I do know of one TV actress discovered at IMTA) that have come from conventions and searches and you would think with how many are put on that all models would come from them. I do know for what some of these organizations charge, you could fly to New York, stay for week and do open calls at every top agency. Personally, I think they are not a very good investment and there are better ways to get discovered, but that is strictly my opinion.

Why is everyone giving different advice on modeling?
Remember the story of the three blind men describing an elephant. One man felt the trunk, another the tail and the third the leg. Each had a different description of what the elephant was like. The modeling industry is the same way. The modeling industry is big with many specialties. What I have experienced is quite different from what fashion photographer Richard Avidon experienced. And what he has experienced is quite different from what glamour photographer Jeff Dumes has. And what we all have experienced is quite different from what the modeling agencies are going to tell you.

Another part that leads to different views on the industry is that we are all small business people – each one running their own business in their own way, and hopefully better than the competition. This leads to a lot of different ideas of how things work and how things should be done. It can also lead to confusion and present opportunities for con-artists. There is a set way to become a doctor, there is, however, no set way to become a model. This leaves the door open for the “expert” to “guarantee” to make you a top model for only a small, non-refundable fee. Watch out and try to educate yourself on the many parts of the modeling industry.

The Agency
You hear that all the top models have great agencies, and you think, “If I can only sign with a modeling agency I will be set.” But what exactly is a modeling agency and what does it do? This is not an easy question to answer. Modeling agencies operate as small independent business with no two agencies working the same. A lot depends on the market in which an agency operates and the owner(s) and agency’s personnel. The other problem with describing a modeling agency is that there are a lot of rip-off and scam agencies out there. Because most wannabe models know little about how the modeling business works, they are easy prey for these vultures. We can look at what an agency might be at its best and worst and what they can do for your career as a model.

A modeling agency’s number one purpose is to find the model work. They work as the model’s representative or agent. As an agent they seek and negotiate contracts of employment for the model or talent who is an independent business. For finding the model work, they take a percent of what the model makes (10% to 33%). In some states they are considered private employment agencies and must be licensed by the state. That sounds fairly simple and straightforward, but it is amazing how it can vary.

New York
New York City is the number one city for models. It is the heart of the fashion and advertising industries in the United States, which leads to a high demand for all types of models. The modeling agencies in New York compete to fill that demand with the finest talent in the nation. When an agency sees someone who has potential or someone who satisfies the demand, they will invest in that individual to get him/her ready for the market. They don’t do this to be nice people – they do it because they feel they can make money from that person. They know the market and they will invest in you (a loan against future earnings) to prepare you for that market. If they guess wrong and you do not become marketable and profitable, they will cut their losses and drop you. The top agencies are working with big-budget ad agencies and fashion designers so there is money available to develop new talent. These top agencies will help train you (more like on the job training), get you test shoots, layout your portfolio, and put together comp cards and other printed materials you need. They take care of finding you work, booking the jobs, bill for the jobs and eventually cut a check for the work you do. Once you are in an agency like this all you have to worry about is following instructions and modeling.

Elsewhere
Within a secondary market, the modeling agencies are not working with big budget clients like New York. In some cities there may be enough work that an agency can be a full time operation – perhaps even supporting a few people on staff but there is not enough work to pay for the development of new talent. For this type of agency you must provide the marketing tools and training. The agency may help you with where to go to get photos, composites and training, but they can’t afford to pay for it or loan you money. There just isn’t enough budget for them to guess wrong even once. So it is up to you to foot the bill. This is fine if the agency is really out there looking for work for its models and there is enough of a market to make a living. The problem I have found with some of these agencies is that they have no idea what they are doing. They are having a great time playing at being a modeling agency, but you could do better marketing yourself.

What if you do find a good agency, what will they do for you? A good agency will help manage your career and find you work. In big cities this can be split into two parts, managers and bookers. The manager will help you develop your “look”, your modeling skills, and develop your natural talents. They will help in preparing your marketing materials for the market in which they think you will be most successful. They should have knowledge of the market place and will honestly evaluate your potential for that market. They should have contacts so they can send you to photographers, graphic designers and printers to prepare your marketing materials. They should have the means to prepare you to be a model. The booking side is where the agency tracks down who uses models. The agency has a phone that is manned and an office that a client can visit. They make the rounds to keep in touch with those who use models and provide them with composites and head sheets of their talent. They advertise, do lunches, do cold calls and turn over stones to find who is hiring models. They book time for models to work, give direction to get there and make sure models show up. They handle billing, collections, and complaints. A good agency finds you work and earns every cent of their commission (usually 15% to 33%). But, in smaller markets, they are a rarity.
Further on down the ladder you find agencies in markets that are too small to support a full time modeling agency. In these markets the modeling school is usually the full time moneymaker and the agency is just a hook. If you finish the school you get to be in the agency. This can be fine if you like to play at modeling and have the money to do so. In most cases if your city has a population of less then a million it will not be able to support a full time agency. Even in a city of a million you may be better off marketing yourself than working with a so-so agency. When you get to a city with a population of a couple million or more there may be just too much ground to cover and an agency can be very helpful.

How do you find a modeling agency?
I have links to sites that have lists of modeling agencies on my Modeling Agencies links page. Since Modeling Agencies want to be easy-to-find, you should also be able to locate them in your local yellow pages. If you find one in your area, you will want to contact them to see what their new model screening process is. Some may have you send a couple of snap shots to them. Others might have an open call where they have all new wannabes show up at once to be evaluated. Others might schedule an interview time for you. All work differently, so call to find out first. Also, be sure to check out the agencies you find with the Better Business Bureau to see if they have any complaints against them. And don’t be pressured into signing anything right away. If they offer a contract or want you to sign up for a class, ask if you can take the contract with you and you will get back to them in a few days. Be sure to read over the Modeling Scams information and watch for any of the warning signs.

This same process of finding a modeling agency also applies if you are looking for one in a major market like New York. Check the link page for links to sites with directories of modeling agencies. Many of the top New York modeling agencies have web sites and some are listed on the link page. Some even allow you to email photos and your vital stats to them.

Checking out a Modeling Agency
A certain mystery surrounds the modeling industry. How does one become a top model? There is no clear-cut answer to that question. Because of this mystery and uncertainty, a great deal of room exists in which a scam artist can work. Since a modeling agency is often the key to becoming a successful model, this is where many scams take place. How do you find a legitimate modeling agency? There is no easy answer.

First, there is no rating service for modeling agencies; there is no governmental authority; there is no licensing organization to tell you which agency is legitimate and which is not. Most agencies are small, independent businesses working in a very competitive market place. These seem to be in constant flux with new ones starting, old ones merging, and some closing up shop. This makes it a real challenge to find just a legitimate agency, let alone a good agency.

The following are some ideas on how to find and then check out a modeling agency in your area:

1) To find the modeling agencies in your area you can check the yellow pages of the phone book under Modeling Agencies. Remember that a modeling agency wants to be easy to find so a phone listing is a must. From the agencies’ listings you may find they are often, also, modeling schools. If there are no agencies listed for your area, you may have to check with the closest large city. If some one approaches you and says they are a scout for some agency and you can’t find them in the phone book, be very skeptical. Also, check out some of the model agency directories listed on the Modeling Agencies Links page to see what is in your area.

2) Check with the Better Business Bureau. They may have information on the modeling agencies you are interested in or complaints against them. Usually an agency has to be pretty bad for the BBB to have anything. Businesses that are bad businesses, or new scams, won’t show up. When I checked on modeling businesses in the Portland area, I found that all of the modeling schools were members of BBB, the legitimate agencies were not, and the one known scam agency did not show any complaints. The BBB is not a perfect source for information, but it is a place to start. You will find many regional BBBs have web sites on which you can find information.

3) One thing I like to do to check out agencies is to call them after business hours. I can find out fast which agencies are trying to be legitimate businesses. The idea behind this is that modeling is a very competitive, fast moving business and things don’t just happen 9 to 5. If, I, as a photographer, have an emergency come up after business hours (a cancellation, a client who has to shoot tomorrow and will pay anything to do it) I need to be able to contact someone now or I am down the road to another agency. A good agency knows this and you will find, when you call them after hours, they will have an answering machine or service that will give you an emergency number to call (a cell phone or pager). If you find the machine just tells you to call back during business hours or they have no after hour answering service at all, look for another agency.

4) The best way, which takes the most work, to find a good agency in your area is by studying and researching your market. If you follow the local news media (newspaper, TV), there is a good chance information on local agencies will show up. This past year the Portland newspaper had articles on a local girl who was discovered and went off to Europe to model (the article gave the name of the local agency that signed her) and a new face modeling contest the paper put on (the judges were from three local modeling agencies and the article gave the name of the agency and the contact at the agency). One of the local TV news stations did a story on a rip-off modeling agency and interviewed people from some of the legitimate agencies. In one year of just following the news (which you should be doing anyway to be an informed voter), I was able to find three legitimate agencies and one scam agency.

5) Another method of researching the local market takes even more work – follow the local fashion print advertising. When you start to see which stores use local models regularly, you can start making phone calls. Call the store and find out who handles the advertising. You can hope that the person at the store who does this can direct you to their advertising agency, their photographer, or may even direct you to the modeling agency they use. Basically, you are making phone calls to trace your way to a modeling agency supplying the models for the store ads. This will lead you to an agency with working models. I hate making cold calls like this myself, but this can be an effective way to find a modeling agency. Then again, if you can make cold calls like this, you may want to forget the modeling and become a photography rep!

NOTE: due to post limitations, this has to be broken up in parts, please follow on parts 2,3,4

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